| 4 - Fuel and Exhaust |
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4.1 Exhaust flange 4.2 Head Intake and Exhaust valves 4.3 Air filter 4.4 Turbo Boost 4.5 Fuel tank gauge replacement 4.6 Fuel Tank removal Table of contents |
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The exhaust connection. When you upgrade to A turbo diesel this exhaust flange ends up in slightly the wrong place, you can get it on with some effort but you need to have the pipes bent and reformed to line up properly. |
4.2 Head Intake and exhaust valves
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A Head, showing the exhaust and air intake valves. This the best I head I have ever seen, no cracks between the valves. Cracks are a common problem but not the sign of a wrecked head. As long as they are narrow and small the head may still be ok. This is not the head I used in the Red van rebuild project but from the first Engine I acquired that turned out to have totally worn block. If you are buying a used engine make sure it's been rebuilt by a reputable mechanic or if you buy an engine for a rebuild check the walls of the cylinders for wear. take the time to pull the head before buying. In my opinion anything beyond a very, very small ridge or no rideg at the top of the cylinder is not worth the money to rebuild as you are going to have to invest in machining and oversize rings and pistons |
| 4.3 Air filter | |||
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AIR FILTER A couple of configurations, the one on the left off a chevy truck, actually fits nicely, I punched a hole in the side to receive a fitting for the cam cover breather hose .The right one is the original hose with an off the shelf K&N filter. Clean air and lots of it that's the key. |
| 4.4 Turbo Boost | |||
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Boost pressure. You need to drill a hole in the top of the intake manifold, then thread it and insert a threaded hose barb. Run the hose thru the firewall and hook up a gauge. Low and behold the turbo produces up to 10 lbs of boost when working hard. |
4.5 Fuel tank gauge replacement
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Fuel sender replacement. This a difficult job, you have to cut a hole in the floor or pull the tank, I opted for the hole. The original sender is in a completely inaccessible place so I just abandoned it. You need to clean up the area around where youare going to drill to keep debris falling into the tank to a minimum. |
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I drilled a new hole in the tank spliced an extra length of wire on the old sender wire and put a new ground lead. Use a marine fuel tank sender as they are cheap,. Use a vacuum cleaner while drilling to suck away the debris from the drilling operation. |
Many of you may be surprised by this so here are the photos of removing the tank with the rear axle in place, it's very tight, requires quite a bit of cussin, but can be done.
Sorry for the bad pictures, not sure if you could get it back in this was part of my electric conversion so it was a one way trip.
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