Engine and Clutch page 2
             5.1 Manual Transmission conversion
             5.2 How to connect the clutch cable
   5.3 Stick shift linkage

             5.4 Engine head
                5.5 Oil temperature and pressure
                5.6 Engine rebuild
             Table of contents

Engine's Parts, tools and misc info

This was a lesson learned I bought this engine from a guy in Vancouver. He said it was a good engine to rebuild, and the reason he had it was that it was producing black smoke and was pulled from another car. I did not do enough checking prior to rebuilding, turned out it was burning blue not black and the block was totally worn out.    Thanks Dan for the engine "kit"

Anyway this video is of that engine and is interesting as a demo only.

I have since bought a professionally rebuilt engine from Gordons European Used Parts in Langely who I can highly recommend.

This was about a 3 week spare time project, that I picked up via Craigs list.
The engine came in a number of boxes, 99% of it was there so it only took a little scrounging to get it going. This engine was "the perfect rebuild project" (ah wrong) as it was apparently a recently rebuilt engine that was disassembled because it had a black smoke issue. The head was in perfect condition no cracks at all, it in fact looked brand new. Pulling the pistons and checking the rings also revealed very new looking rings, nice looking bearings and even what looked like honed cylinder walls. So I opted to only change the vale stem seals and put a new gasket kit in.
I built a injector tester on the way (see below for details).
Setting up the timing was bit tricky but having made a pump dial gauge tool a few years back paid off big time again. I don't know if anyone else does this but loosening the cam shaft sprocket really helps in getting TDC and the pump exactly in sync.
Here is a great article about rebuilding a Turbo Diesel : TD REBUILD  
Things to watch out for when installing a Turbo diesel into a KUBVAN.
1- Front engine mount
2- Exhaust pipe connection
3- Gear shift and selector rods and lever connection
4- Coolant hoses and fittings
5- Air Filter
6- Rear transaxle mount
7- Fuel Filter

Engine exchanges:

I am lead to believe that whether you have a Passat, Jetta, Golf, vanagon or a rabbit, the engines can be interchanged. I have successfully installed both a 1987 Jetta diesel and two 1991 Jetta turbo diesel into kubvans. I won't say it was easy. But below are some of the things I learned while doing these conversions.

1- Front Engine Mount: It's best (and I have tried it several ways) to remove the old injector pump mounting bracket from the engine you are removing from your van and exchange it for the one on your turbo engine. The injector pump bracket has the front rear engine mount that matches up perfectly with the kubvan.  You will need to remove the rear mount that cam with the turbo, as I hinted above I have tried to use this but it's complex and does not allow the engine to move or sit right without a lot of fiddling. It's best to take the extra time and switch brackets. injector mount

2- The exhaust manifold is in a slightly different place so although you can get the pipe to fit it does not seal properly and makes a bit more noise. One vehicle I took to a muffler shop and they adjusted it, the other I stuck a about a 2ft piece of flex pipe. between a the manifold and the exhaust pipe as it bent under the chassis the other is the air inlet for both the non-turbo and the turbo.

Pictures top come o this one.
3- Gear Shift Selectors: This is tricky to get right there seems to be several variations to the theme depending on where you get you gear shift parts, Jetta and rabbits are different.
       selector lever selector 1 b selector rod 1a
    selector rod 1  selector 2   selector rods
These pictures show the positioning of the selector lever, you will note the bolt in the foreground. I have seen the selector lever mounted in this position instead of the lower position that I have it in. In the lower position you use the black selector rods which includes a longer forward reverse rod. The white ones are used in the upper position and with a different selector arm shown in the first picture on the right. The first picture shows the ball selector arm from a rabbit.
The second picture shows a long forward reverse selector (black)
The last picture depicts the 3 different types of gear selctor rods and the 2 types of forward reverse rods. Rabbits are black jetta's a white.
4- Coolant hoses, as you know its the least well thought out part of the VW engines. The oil cooler only adds to the complexity I think you would be better off adding an after market external cooler. None the less I found a head return line connection that has an extra hose connection that works way better than the stock piece and allows you to get rid of one of those ridicules three way hoses. You will need all the hoses that connect to this to complete the jig saw puzzle. I have to return to the wrecking yard to find out the dat of this gas engine this came off of.
So if you interested check back in a few weeks or email me (July 16th today)
head coolant return

5- Air filter : I have found that you can mount an after market air filter such as a K&N cylinder this requires some zap straps to hold it down but it works ok. I found this cool one of a chev or GM engine that works fine too. 



  k&N filter    cool filter
6- The transaxle mount bracket for a manual or automatic transmission is different, the mounting on the frame is exactly the same however. Pictures to come
7- Fuel filter, You need to relocate the fuel filter as a result of putting the Turbo diesel on. The air tube goes right round where the fuel filter is. I simply moved it over above the information plate. fule filter 1   fule filter 2
Head Gaskets: There are two basic types of head gaskets which correspond with your engine type. There are three thicknesses for each type, referred to as 1,2 or 3 hole or sometimes referred to as 1,2 or 3 notch.

Here is a great article about head replacement : Head Replacement link
Head Bolts: There are two types of head bolts. Basically ones you  can reuse and ones you can't. They are not interchangeable
 VW part number068 103 384A
vw diesel head gasket
The basic Non-Turbo Gasket, 1 notch
Glow Plugs: There are two types, slow and fast. You need to know what relay you have to ensure that you are using the right one. If you use a  fast type in a slow relay configuration you will burn out the glow plugs in a short time. Personally I have thrown out the relay and put in a toggle switch (with a headlight realy) to turn the glow plugs on only when I need them, I also have a buzzer hookeed up so I don;t forget to turn them off. The short term memory is not as good as it used to be.
VW turbo diesel head gasket
The Basic Turbo Gasket, 2 notch, notice the extra oil return tube on the right top.
Injectors: There are two types of Injectors, they look the same however they are set for different breaking pressures 130 bar for use in the aspirated diesel and the 155 bar for use  with the turbo diesel.
Cleanliness and a good spray pattern are essential to a good working injector. Black smoke is often caused by an injector that is not atomizing the fuel properly and consequently not all the fuel gets burned  on the combustion stroke. There are lots of idea's out there for D.I.Y injector testing mostly modeled after the VW testing device. However I have found that making your own tester is difficult and more complex that required. The VW tester measure the breaking pressure and allows pump up to test for leaking, which if your a pro shop I guess might be useful but for most of us we  just need a go no go test. So what I have done is converted an old injector pump from surplus engine that works just great !
.Go to this page for more details.           DIY Diesel Injector tester
Hydraulic lifters vs. Mechanical
---from -http://www.vwdieselparts.com/---

"From 1981 to 1992 all VW Diesel Motors will interchange back and forth. The fact that your motor has mechanical lifters and you are installing a motor with hydraulic has no bearing as to weather it will fit and work. The same holds true with mechanical lifters to a car that has hydraulic lifters! The mechanical lifters do produce a bit more power but the valves have to be adjusted every 15,000 miles. Hydraulic lifters do not require adjusting but is a more expensive motor."